Grants to Pie Town

Well today was an eventful day!

Firstly, I'm back on dirt. Hard, washboarded, dirt. It feels good in a painful sort of way. Today's riding was definitely a chimera. It started out paved for about 38 miles going through The El Malpais national monument; a mix of sandstone cliffs and arches, and vast volcanic fields with ... junipers? growing in them.  It started with a headwind but eventually was a side/tailwind. It took me less than 3 hours on bike and I finished it by 12:30.

Then I got in dirt. Some deep loose gravel, most washboarded, much of it trashed from when it was wet. The riding was still pretty and through rolling hills of desert ranchland. The last 30 miles took 2:37 on bike (which I guess is still about the same pace) making for 70.6 miles with 5:37 on bike, arriving at 4:20pm - but much sorer and tireder. 

Pie Town, btw, is awesome! It had about 60 people living in it, two cafes that specialize in pie (one more official than the other I think) and an amazing open house called The Toaster House for Divide Riders and CDT Hikers and other travelers. 

I got to the cafe first, where I met the two Kiwis that I'd heard a bit about being in front of me. They are a couple who've been riding since Bannf and I joined them for lunch and great PIE! I caught them because they took a rest day in Grants.

Then on to the toaster house where they are staying as well, and I met another great couple who work on a goat farm near by (for now). The are traveling artists who couldn't get out to their farm yesterday due to mud (on the same road that was fine for me today) and were awaiting a ride and staying at the Toaster House until one was available. The five of us had a good night of hanging out and conversations.

This place is amazing. Full of CDT and Divide stuff, extra food, tons of rooms and beds, and completely open to us. No one else is here. A family of 5 was raised here from about 1981 to 1998 it seems, sometime after that time it became a hiker haven. It even has a full bike work stand out front that was donated by a Divide racer.   You'll just have to look at the photos on the next photo post. Pie Town wins, for real.

One other thing that's become clear to me is that water will be an issue over the next day or two. My original planned camping spot tomorrow has been reported dry, so instead I'm pushing to a farther out dry camping spot. I'll be heading out with 12 Liters of water, with a worst-case scenario being the next water I see is at 99 miles and one overnight away. (Remember, I'm now in a New Mexican desert ecosystem) However, I'm pretty sure at least a few of the reported water spots will pan out, I'll just top off frequently and deal with the extra water weight. "Go slow, carry extra water, go slow, carry extra water."  I'm clearly not a racer, and I'll gladly admit to packing my fears.  

On the other hand, this cuts another day off my schedule. It's tempting to take a rest day here at The Toaster House because it's so rad, but there is a lot of unknown coming up and I don't want to stress about tomorrow for an entire other day.  So, Toaster House, I love you, but this is our only night together. I could spend a week here and still not fully comprehend the history and adventure that's passed through here. It's truly inspring to be in a place that has been integral to so many years of adventuring!