Saturday, June 29, 2024

Wild Goose Campground to Lochsa Lodge

Not enough internet for photos, but...

I'm more interested in being here than writing, so here's what's up. I made it! I'm at Lochsa Lodge. 68 miles today, 4:50 on bike, arrived at 3:12 PM. I had a good breakfast 1.5 miles in at Lowell, and lunch at 43.9 miles by the river where I filtered more water. 

It was very much like being back on the divide. There was nothing between where I camped and here, so I set a goal - lunch around 40 miles, and after 40 miles passed I stopped at the first good spot to each lunch and filter more water.  The last three times I rode this I didn't have a water filter and had to carry a ton instead - booo. I also took a stretch greak at 16 miles. I pee'd a lot too.  

The road was good and I had a light tailwind for a lot of it. I felt strong. I think this may be the strongest I've ever done this stretch, which makes me happy. Being a better rider at 43 than I was at 33 is a nice feeling - and I wasn't new at it then either!

I also finally caught the brothers who I'd been behind since Day 2, I was a half day behind them much of the ride, and I caught them today. I ride faster than them, but they take fewer breaks.  Touring cyclists often are tortises or hares - I'm definitely a hare. I prefer <5 hours on bike and lots of chillin' 

The ride was amazing - just 68 miles of being by an amazing river with light traffic. It is a bit of a mind eff, since the scenery never really changes and you can get caught staring at your odometer moving slowy, and it's a long uphill, but I enjoyed the mental challenge. 

Now I'm at the Lodge, camped with 4 other cyclists (the brothers, another guy going east, and one going west). I'm having my celebratory burger for the 4th time, and everything is great. 

I don't have much more to say, so I'm going to stop writing and enjoy the moment. :) I did it! One more day and I've done 700 some miles, countless passes, and pulled it off again. Feels good.  

The goal of this trip has been accomplished. 

One interesting thing, I see everything through the lense of a teacher now, having been one for 18 years. Bike tours should count as PDUs. I think often - how do I guide 10 to 13 year olds onto this path? It's a big discussion. Too big for right now - but rest assured I have many, many thoughts on it - and on the futility of it. Paths must be walked, experiences must be had. There are no shortcuts. Guidance is... complicated.

Yup.

Oh yea, the other thing I thought about today was that, after filltering water, I was carrying it back upstream. That particular water had an entirely different fate until I intervened. Would it have made it to the ocean? Would it have been drank by a deer? Evaporated? Seeped? Who knows?

Fate is a funny thing, and today I was an interesting instrument of fate acting on that river. What does that mean? What is the lesson?  I don't know yet. I don't think the answer is as important as the question.

White Bird to Wild Goose Campground near Lowell

I am fortunate today. I'm camped at Wild Goose Campground on the Lochsa River, about 1.5 miles from Lowell, where I stayed the last three times I cycled this stretch. Twice behind the building (2007 and 20014) and once in nearby campgrounds (2003). This time I wanted something quieter and I didn't want to talk my way into behind a building again, so I checked out a forest service campground 1.5 miles before and it's perfect. The water isn't safe to drink, but I have a filter so I can drink right out of the river, so it's very Divide like. 

Honestly, drinking the river just is a cherry on top for my river thoughts today. This is exaclty where I wanted to be on my 2nd to last night. 

Today I have a lot to say. Firstly, White Bird was super fun. That town is doing great. I hung out at the cafe/bar for hours, met a wedding party, chatted up several people, listened to them discuss the debate, learned from how they saw things, tried to convince a young conservative Wisconsin kid to follow his heart and move to Idaho and remember to live not just work, etc. That kind of thing. As a teacher, I've learned that often all you want to do is plant seeds and let them grow in their own way. 

Then I played music in the park by myself and got some sleep.

The climb out of White Bird was beautiful and intense as usual. I had a quick breakfast at the same place, left at 8, and reached the top, 3.6k feet and 11.6 miles later, at 10:30 with 1:45 on bike.  Then a quick 10 mile downhill into Grangeville which took less than 30 minutes and I hit that town at 11.  The weather was cool and wind inconsequential.

In Grangeville I ran into someone from the wedding party last night at a cool coffee shop, so that was neat. I left around 12:30, hit Kooskia at 2:30 or so, and then Wild Goose Campground  at mile 67 with 5:33 on bike around 5:10 pm. 

Additional highlights, before I talk about rivers, was the 3 mile screaming downhill out of the Grangeville fields (looks like the midwest but different crops), where I had to stop often to let my rims cool off from braking, and the last 23 miles along the Lochsa River.  The pavement is also much better than last time I rode this - now it's smooth - last time it was fresh chipseal and that can slow your average speed from 16mph to 13mph with the same effort - which if you are going 65 miles like I am tomorrow is about an entire extra hour of biking. So that's great! The wind forcast is also for light winds.

Tomorrow I do 65ish miles of slight uphill to the Lochsa lodge, it'll be between 4 and 5 hours on bike with no turns - just me, the river, and light traffic. 

So here's the drama for the day. Heading into Grangeville a work truck with a trailer rolled coal on me pretty good. It was the first time I'd been gotten good like that since the LAST time I was in this area (Kooskia that time in 2014). It really soured my mood, and suddenly I was seeing everyone as a threat. I mean, who does that to someone?  Especially since this was obviously an adult.  I think maybe the debate got them all stirred up, but honestly it probably would have happened anyway.  It's different then when the guy pulled over outside of Prineville too - that was conflict that was resolved - this was just straight up bullying.

So I was in a sour, sour mood the entire time I was in Grangeville and riding out of it. I hated this area of Idaho. I hated Grangeville and Kooskia. I knew some cool people had to live here, but in general everyone since this happens every time I come here. I was angry, upset, suspicious - I have a history with being bullied a lot.  Growing up with a stutter was rough, and despite years of work on it I have buried hate that can be triggered when bullied again, 3 some-odd decades later. 

I was also mad at myself - I'd had a terrible time for at least two hours - and that was exactly what the bully wanted. He was winning. It was ruining my day, and a section of the ride I'd been looking forward to doing again for a decade was being ruined. I didn't want to give the bully that much power over me, but it was hard.  I ended up stopping in a particularly pretty, sunny spot and full on went through all the meditations and breathing excercises that I teach kids, and focused on forgiveness. Forgiveness, to me, is letting go of hate and anger. It's not for the person who wronged you, it's for you. And - it worked - I started coming out of it. 

Then I rode and thought - you don't get mad at rain, headwinds, hills, or heat. There is no point, they are things to weather - they make life interesting and the ride difficult and some things are worth doing just because they are hard. I've learned to love them all because they all make my life amazing. Likewise, there is no point in getting mad at bad humans. Zooming out, humans are just as natural as wind or rain. Bad humans will always exist, they will always make your life hard, but they deserve no more emotional investment then a rainstorm.

That's not say you should just accept things the way they are.  We build windbreaks for the wind, roofs for the rain, sunscreen for sun - and the science behind manipulating humans into being better humans is strong and as well developed as any engineered flood control device. There is no reason to get emotionally invested. I felt this deeply - accepting and adapting to human failings deserves no more negative emotions than accepting and adapting to any other barrier in life - and the best way to accept a barrier is find the good in it - then it is no-longer a barrier.  Someone rolled coal on me today, and it helped me process past trauma.  This was not a bad day.   

So I think about rivers a lot, because I bike by them all the time, but also it's a main analogy in Siddartha and they do it well.  A river doesn't get mad at the rocks it flows over and around that block it's path. If anything, it enjoys them - it's something to do. Rapids sound happy. And - it's not something that ever ends. I'm sitting here looking at a swell that is always there. The river is consantly flowing over and around the same  rocks over and over and over again - slowly making them smaller but they are there. My past with bullying is the same way, I'll always need to be flowing around and over it - it will always be behind me, in front of me, and around me, all at the same time - and that's ok. It's a just a part of me like that swell is a part of the river.

Rivers are also really good metaphors for the idea of a conciousness within time.  A river is at all times it's start and end, always changing and always the same. We are the same - we are our young selves, our old selves, and our current selves, but also moving within our own timeline. We are like a whole river but at the time time a single water drop traveling the entire length. How do you define and categorize something that is both entirety and transient, like a river or a timeline?

From Siddartha:

"He saw that the water ran and ran incessantly, and nevertheless was always there at all times, the same and yet new every moment. The one who grasped this and understood this was great! He did not understand and grasp it, but felt some inkling of it stirring, a distant memory and divine voices."

The metaphor works for anything - oceans waves, wind, orbits, even life cycles. Subsequent birds live in the same tree, always new and always the same - trees live in the same forest, forests live on the same planets, planets reform in the same universe - always there yet always changing. 

The barriers are like trials - but not even that - maybe features. The wind doesn't get angry when it has to flow around a tree or a cyclist - it just does and maybe enjoys the change in pace a little bit. It has no goal, it just enjoys the flow. It doesn't care if it's a natural vs human-made object, it just is. We can learn a lot from that attitude. 

Heck, even the rocks in the river are their own cycle. The river is the barrier now - always wearing them down, but they reform into other rocks, other types, will be shot out of volcanoes, crushed under pressure, and eventually melted and spread into the cosmos  by the sun and one day form another planet. Many of those minerals may find their way into living things, and take an entirely different path for awhile. 

One game I picked up on the divide is looking at things - anything - natural, not natural - a brick, a bird flying, clouds flowing - and asking myself "what can I learn from this? What is the universe saying here?" - Its mostly a bridge to introspection - a way to conciously realize truths you already know but don't know "out loud." It also can be thought of as opening your mind to the language of the universe. What we see are reflections of truths - like how we see a black hole by it's affects on what is around it - we can read the source code of the universe by how it manifests in the visual world. 

Or - again - it's just a tool for introspection. Doesn't matter, really.

I've been staring at this river for awhile now, and I've "learned" two insights from it so far. 

First, there a little backspray section, where the river takes to the air and goes upstream only to fall back down and flow down again. To me it looks like part of the river is trying to fight gravity - but you could think about it as a reaction to an obstacle if you want to take a different lesson - but I'll go down that road later - something about having fun with healing. What it looks like to me now, however, is the river having fun.  It's accomplishing nothing - make a big show, trying to go back up river, but in the end nothing is happening besides a little erosion (and there is a lesson there too) - but the lesson I see now is that "fun is not folly."

 I see the river playing, having a good time. Not everything has to be productive - if a river can try to go back up stream, only to crash down and do it over and over again - why can't we? The river feels no guilt for not marching straight down stream as "it's meant to do." Likewise, we should forgive ourself for not always being productive. We are the same, after all. Just sticky molecules flying around the sun, taking turns being rivers and humans. 

Another interesting effect that I'll meditate on more - is the optical illusion where when you look away from a river or waterfall and all the trees and everything else are going the opposite direction. The science is pretty basic behind it, but I think there a many insights we can take from it - including that our brain is hardwired to find balance and to adapt - but zooming out - so is everything. The river is flowing down but equal moisture is flowing up to replentish it.  The world is always balancing, and we are of the world, so our eyes and brains can't help but play and show us this truth. 

There is a molecular language under everything. There is a cosmic conversation always happening - and it's not a language that can be spoken or written, and it sounds absolutely silly and confusing when someone tries to explain it, and it has nothing to do with science. There are myriad ways to open yourself up to it - rivers, wind, cycling, doing hard things, art music, whatever - but it's easily blocked out by every day life to the point where it can be very hard to hear. 

Humans are natural animals, we used to have quiet lives - very dififcult lives - but quiet. We are able "speak" the language of the cosmos, because we are the cosmos.  

Maybe - scientifically - it's all just mind games toward introspection and understanding our subconscious and being able to hear the things we need to hear to reach homeostasis, or maybe it's something more. Maybe it doesn't matter. 

I wrote a song while out here, and it talks about this a lot. This is the chorus, I'll post the rest later. The chorus has become a bit of mantra for me, running through my head when pitching my tent in a windstorm, or climbing a hot hill, or just riding and enjoying life.

The journey is the destination
The search is the reward
Focus leads to frusteration
Don't leave the path ignored

With time, words fade away
Their useless for these thoughts anyway
Whats learned can never be conveyed
There's magic in the mess.

(The magic in the mess line came from a sticker Kira gave me forever ago)

Thursday, June 27, 2024

Zim's to White Bird Photos

Today's route, don't let it fool you, almost 3k of climb is no joke! Also headwinds and it actually was 63 miles.

Last night's storm was brutamazing!

They let me camp in the wind break behind their lodge. It still took all my storm guy wires to handle the wind.


Idaho good work!
Oh yea, out of order, but a shoulder! I literally cheared when I saw it. It stuck around all day.

Here's some pretty stuff

Yes please
Humans make cave drawings everywhere they go!


My tire wore out! See narrative.

The construction wasn't so bad.
This is my "this ain't so bad" face.
This is like, 50% of what I look at when traffic is around.

Yes! Getting on Old 95. Construction 95 is on the right.

Old 95 is up there, above White Bird.
I stayed in this church once.

I've been here for hours. 





Zim's to White Bird, Day 9

Today was a series of tests and successes, and a reminder that often the only difference between a shitty day and a good day is how you look at it. 

Stats first, to get them out of the way. 63 miles, 4:26 on bike, arriving at 3:23 pacific time, which I am now back in, because Idaho is weird. Leaving at 7:07 Pacific. 

Ok, firstly, last night was super wild. A huge storm blew through Zim's and I ended up taking shelter in their garage. They were kind enough to let me put my tent up behind the hot springs lodge since the campground was too exposed and the wind was insane.  It only took an hour to blow over but it was crazy rain, lightning, the whole thing. The wind lasted most of the night though, and even with a moderate wind break it was a loud night. 

My tent is pretty good in a storm, however (REI Halfdome) and I waited until after the storm to put it up, so it only had to deal with wind most of the night. The biggest storm I weathered in it was an A&M Reservoir on The Divide - that was several hours of me holding the end up as the wind flattened it. It was insane. 

So it was a loud night, but thanks to the kindness of Larry and Deb from Zim's it wasn't nearly had bad as it coulda been. 

The storm brought in cooler weather but also a wind shift. I had headwinds all day, and the first 30 miles were a net downhill by a beautiful river. If I'd pushed yesterday it'd been a tailwind and like a motor, but today I had to pedal downhill. It wasn't hot though, so everything has pros and cons. Also, 95 had a shoulder all day today, so even though traffic was high it wasn't as bad as yesterday. 

I spent a couple hours in Riggins, a white water rafting adventure town, 30 miles out, because I was feeling a bit worn down. I had 33 miles to go, and no more downhill, just 2k of climbing in rollers, a headwind, and predicted construction.  

So here is where I either had an amazing afternoon, or a terrible one, all depending on your mindset. Firstly, my left knee really started hurting, as well as some saddle sores. I also went through 10 miles of construction and my back tire wore out and had to be replaced. It was also headwindds the whole time. 

But here's how it actually played out - my knee WAS killing me, I stopped and stretched several times, and ofne of the times I was sitting behind my bike and happened to notice my rear tire was worn down to the blue "stop riding me you idiot you're gonna die" warning strip. Shit. Just a half mile prior I'd seen a sinh "construction, rough road, motorcycles beware, clutch your pearls" or something to that nature.  I had 15 miles left to White Bird, and it was a crapshoot if I'd make it there on that tire. And, tomorrow, I have a amazing screaming downhill after Grangeville where a catastrophic blowout would be... catastrophic. 

So my knee pain warned me about my bad tired with enough time to find a shady place before the construction to fix it.  I happened to have a spare tire, because the BS half done chipseal scared me enough on day 1 to buy a spare on day 2 in Prineville, the last chance I had to to buy one. Another case of a shitty thing saving my ass.  It also only took me 30 minutes to do the change out, despite having an Old Man Mountain Rack which attaches direclly the quick release skewer. 

So, I found a shady place, changed my tire, and saved my ass. Then, I took ibuprofen and raised my seat up a little which mostly solved my knee pain. So far the other reasons that cuased me to lower my seat haven't returned. It's in he middle spot now. I also filled my water bottles with caffinated Mio, which is a great mood  boost.

Then, 10 miles of construction, torn up road, pilot cars, the whole bit.  The road wasn't too bad though, and what ended up happening is the pilot cars bunched all the traffic up into big groups. So those 10 miles were more like 20 minutes of the road all to myself, then getting off on the shoulder for 3-5 minutes while all the cars and trucks passed, then 20 minutes of the road to myself again. It was AWESOME!  In the past I'd have kept riding while the groups of cars came by, and many cyclists do - but it's dumb. Sometimes you just gotta accept that you need to get off the road for 5 minutes. 

So my knee pain may have saved my life, the chipseal scared me into grabbing a spare tire, and the constuction made the traffic better.  I could have wrote a blog complaining about my knee pain, construction, etc, but that's just not the reality I live in. Oh yea, I could complain about the full day of headwinds, but they brought the temperature down to the 70's instead of the 90's, which made standing by the road while craploads of traffic passed me much more enjoyable.  Nothing is all good or bad, you just gotta focus on the right things. 

I've said before that this is what I think Karma, or Bikema when on a bike trip, really is.  People who do good things have good attitudes and see their life as blessed - while other people have shitty attitudes and interpret the very same events negatively and see their life as cursed. It's often the same life though - but eventually it does build on itself, because the healthier our outlook is the better able we are to make good choices - like getting off the road and waiting patiently when a line of logging trucks is about to go past you instead of stubbornly riding next to them on a torn up road, and cursing them, your life, and your bad luck.

Anyways, White Bird rules.  I stayed in a church here in 2003 and the park in 2014. In 2014 I drank in the local bars and jammed out with a local in the park. This year there is a new place with great wifi and good food/beers and I'm hanging out. In general I love this town - even if I'm keeping my blueish hair covered. 

Tomorrow I climb the famous White Bird Hill. 3.6k feet climb over 12 miles on Old 95 (no traffic), then into Grangeville, then eventually to the Lochsa River and the last leg of this trip! I think 60 some miles tomorrow. 

Also my knee feels fine now, so.... ok.  Knee you so wiley!  Oh yea, I almost forgot. I shouldn't have hot springed yesterday. I knew this but forgot. Right after excercising heat is bad. It promotes welling, etc. Hottubs are good for recovery 24 hours later, but the same day you ride you want to ice to reduce, instead of increase, swelling. This is likely why my knee hurt today and my wrists and hamstrings hurt after hot springing yesterday.  Bad timing. I knew better, but forgot that I did. :)

Wednesday, June 26, 2024

Cambridge to Zims Hot Springs

Overcast Morning!


Rain!
This is what I will call "eggs" for the rest of my life.

More rain! Nice shoulder here. I didn't really take photos when it wasn't nice.

Overcast selfie

This my shoulder for most of the day. The lighter stuff is loose gravel that you can't ride on.
I took this gravel for a mile or too looking for a alternate bike path (read the narrative) but failed and had to backtrack. No cars though!

I did find it eventually. It was hard riding.

This was a nice stretch. Tailwind, flat, slightly less traffic.

I was on this road the last 5 miles. Zero traffic to Zim's!
Zim's!
It's very windy. This is how I make a stove wind break. (Also no water here so I rode it all in).


Cambridge to Zim's HOT Springs, Day 8

Interesting day today. We'll start with last night though. 

Around 4 or 5, maybe 6, who knows? I'm in a different time zone now and everything is weird. Anyway, around "a time" Copeland from London rolled into the park heading west. He started in the border range of the Colorado Rockies. Ken, who'd I'd met the day earlier, mentioned I'd probably see him.  We hung a little bit, but by the time he was done eating in town and finding a shower it was bed time. He's a late riser (which is why he got in so late) so I didn't see him in the morning.

It's funny, we did similar mileages but I got in a 1pm and he got in around 6pm. He was in the worst heat and worst wind. I tried to tell him that the best riding is from 6am to noon, and if I had discipline I'd be on my bike by 5am when the sun came up, but he knew - and the best he could do is... I dunno, 10ish?

He did warn me that the car drivers were super rude the last few days for him. He'd been buzzed a few times and had coal rolled on him (that's when a diesel truck downshifts and guns it right next to you, covering you in thick black smoke). I kind of expected that soon anyway, since one of the worst times that's happened to me was in Kooskia, which I go through in two days.

I do think part of the issue is he rides later in the day, and younger dudes tend to be the ones who roll coal, and they sleep in.  My traffic is older dudes going to work, his is younger dudes screwing off. Rolling coal is something I think you grow out of, like pissing and shitting yourself, probably around the same age (which is embarassingly late for some of these guys out here.)

I left at 8 local time, 7 pacfic, so earlier than I had been leaving but also later in the local day. I burned a quick 22ish into Council in nice conditions - light rain, thunder, tailwind - but uphill, got there around 10 local time. Then 51.5 total miles to New Meadows and then an additional 5 miles to Zim's Hot Springs arriving 3:30 local time with 4:35 on bike and 57 miles. It got kind of muggy later in the day, but now it's super windy I think highs in the 70's tomorrow. 

The ride was very interesting. The main issue was traffic. I don't remember this section, highway 95, being this busy in the past. It's really busy now. There was a good shoulder to Council, but really nothing from Council to New Meadows, which suuuuuuuuuuuuucked. I had to pull off the road a lot. It was hilly and windy (as in turned a lot) and just sucked.

There was an alternative trail from Cambridge to just outside new Meadows that I discovered but it's more of an ATV/Fat Bike trail. A local warned me it wouldn't work on my tires, so I didn't take it, but I wish I had. I found my way onto it for about 5 miles near the end, and it was really rough riding, but better than cars. 

Honestly, I need a more versitile touring bike. I have my divide rig, which does great offroad and OK on road, and this bike which is great on road but old and heavy. What I should have done, in hindsight, is put semi-fat road wheels on my divide bike (a Surly Ogre) and ridden that. It's much lighter, faster, and with hybrid wheels or tires would have been great on pavement but given me the option to take dirt alternates. I just need to figure out how to strap on my Ukukele since it's rigged for bike packing (no racks). 

I decided to push a bit farther to Zim's Hot Springs, run by the Nez Pierce. I'm camped here and have access to a 95 deg and 103 deg hotspring until 8pm.  It's full of healing minerals and stuff, and is much nicer than chilling in a park all night. I've really enjoyed talking to Larry who runs the place. He is FlyGuyIdaho in youtube. Check it out!

Tomorrow I ride on busy-ass highway all day, which is going to suck. Hopefully it gets a shoulder again. I don't know that doing this route every 10 years is going to pan out if this road remains this busy.   It also looks like I may have to deal with some construction. I think I may start focusing more on dirt tours. Dirt tours are difficult in their own way, but dang, cars just suck.  

I will say the drivers were all doing their best. No-one threatened me, buzzed me, or rolled coal, so that was cool, and I just got off the road and stopped every time I saw/heard a whole bunch coming and wide loads and stuff. It slows me down but keeps me alive. (I have a pretty good mirror).    

I did get off the road some, like when heading to Zim's from town, and I took a gravel road for awhile looking for a way to get on the bike trail (I failed and had to backtrack a couple miles), and for a few miles I was on the trail, so that was all very exciting. 

Oh yea, this area is cool. Not only does Zim's have hotsprings,  but many of the houses nearby have their own hotsprings and geothermal heating.

Tuesday, June 25, 2024

The ride so far

I figured I should post the ride so far... the mileages aren't exact, this is from the AC app.

Sister to Smith Rock

Smith Rock to Mitchel 

Mitchel to Mt Vernon-ish (Clyde Holiday St Park)

Mt Vernon to Austin Store (short day)

Austin Store to Baker City

Baker City to Oxbow

Oxbow to Cambridge, where I am now! I'll post the rest with their respective posts.