Uh, what a day. Long day, but with new and interesting experiences!
First I should explain what happend last night. Just as I was writing my post about how people this close to Mordor (Chicago) and other urban areas get overly wary of strangers, I met Jim in the bar and after a bit of conversation he invited me to stay with him and his wife Mary at his place about 5 miles away! We finished our beer, threw my bike in his truck, and away we went. We had a good time, and I learned a lot about Jim's small bridge building business (for golf courses, etc). I saw some of his work and it was pretty great. In the morning he and Mary made me a great breakfast with his "world famous" omelettes and I was on the road by 7:30am!
That was the last quick thing that would happen. Today I did 88 miles with 6:35 on bike getting to camp around 7:30ish pm. Egh.
The morning was the slowest part. In order to find a bridge over the Des Plaines River I had to go several miles north to Minas Morgul (Joliet), the closest town ecompassed on the map by lava fueled by the evil sprawl that is Mordor. I tried to play County Road Roulette there, but the percentage of gravel roads in Illinois is MUCH higher than in Indiana, so I had a rough time with that. All the paved roads I found were too busy and narrow, even by out west standards. I kept having to stop to check maps, etc.
Finally I found a crushed limestone bike path that took me the lst 10 miles into Minas Morgul, then I had to navigate that hell with a map that didn't have most of the roads on it, and eventually I found the Illinois-Missouri Canal trail to get me out of there.
Minas Morgul was just a bad as I remembered Mordor sprawl towns to be. Zero... ZERO bike infrastruture, busy roads, lousy pavement, and a maze-like layout. Calm roads randomally shoot you on to busy ones and the intersections are all huge and full of hazards - riding in Minas Morgul was like being a deer running across a busy highway with all the cars being driven by hunters with machine guns while talking on their cell phones. My back tire was even stabbed by a Ringwraith (or maybe it was a piece of glass) to give me my fourth flat of the trip.
Once on the trail though everything got great. Even though it's crushed limestone I figured I'd stay on it for awhile. I was likely to end up on gravel anyway playing roulette because all the paved roads this near Mordor are too busy, and at least the trail wasn't washboarded.
Interesting sidenote: Did you know that the bike lobby is why we have paved roads? The League of American Bicyclists (I think it was them) in New York State lobbied to get the first paved roads so they could ride on them with their bikes. Car drivers didn't care about that stuff. The first paved roads were made for bikes; we had them first. Then cars came and took them over. Keep that in mind.... paved roads were orginally for bikes, not cars.
Anyway, the canal trail goes about 66 miles west to La Salle (halfway across Illinois) so I figured I'd stay on it. It was beautiful! Riding it felt more like backpacking than bike touring. It wasn't always in good shape, but it was always awesome. To make it even more awesome, at mile 72 today random construction guys working on the trail gave me several free beers. Winning.
The slow morning route finding combined with the slower pace on the crushed limestone trail (same effort, 2mph slower on average) meant I didn't get in until 7:30. I had wanted to go farther, but I ran out of daylight since I'm on the east side of the central timezone. I'm staying in Utica, a tiny town but kind of touristy. The park was way too central so after asking around I found free isolated camping down by the Illinois River.
I had a nice dinner on the water, watched barges and heron, and the sounds of a music concert occasionally waft to me from somewhere south of here. Sure, I have to have a tent, but it is great here.
Tonight I'll fall asleep to the crazy loud frogs, bugs, and small woodland creatures rummaging around outside my tent. Fun!
ILYI