Tuesday, July 30, 2019

Day 1 2019: Silverthorn to Heaton Campground

Silverthorne to Heaton Campground

I'm back on the Divide!  I'm at Heaton Campground on the Dillon Reservoir, the reservoir that - through a tunnel - supplies all the water to Denver many miles away on the Continental Divide. I'm almost in town, between Silverthorne (where I stopped last year) and Frisco.  I'm sharing a campsite with a SOBO divide rider named Steve, because they want $24 for hiker/biker (as far as we can tell). I know nothing about Steve as he went into town for supplies shortly after we met.  I think he may be... English?

Today I rode all of 5 miles, from the parking lot where I stopped last year to here, getting here at 3:50pm. Why so short? Because I'm at 9,000 feet and tomorrow I climb over Boreas Pass at 11,000 feet, and that's hella high. Eugene is a lofty 300 feet, and Iowa, which I just biked 475 miles across, goes from 1,500 feet to 500 feetish. Unlike last year when I was well acclimated to this elevation by the time I reached it, this year I'm not at all, and it's hard. 9,000 feet is no joke. I was huffing and puffing just to climb a short hill to get to the top of the reservoir.  

Muscles? Solid.
Bike? Solid.
Mental Game? Solid. 
Lungs? EVERYTHING IS ON FIRE!

But, I spent the day in Denver yesterday at 5k feet, and today I'll spend mostly at 9k feet, so hopefully I'll acclimate quickly.

Well anywho.... If you read my last post from last year when I ended my ride early instead of finishing so that I could do things like solidify my relationship and buy a house, you may be asking - did it work?

Why yes, it DID!  Andrea and I are doing better than ever, and we bought an awesome house after spending the month of August securing loans and searching (instead of Divide riding). We put an offer in the first week of September right as I went back to work, and closed on Oct 1st!  So yes, it was a great call to end early even though I didn't get the experience of a full 2 months on the Divide and I lost my altitude acclimatization.  

It was also a very hard year work-wise though, and I quit the highschool intensive SpEd job I had for a more standard Middle School SpEd job that I will start next fall. Mainly due to how terrible my job became, and despite intensive effort, I was unable to hold on to the calmed, blissed out, "communicating with the world" state that I was in that I wrote about in my last post. However, my soul didn't fall asleep either, and I didn't lose ground I don't think. It was a hard and testing year, but it was also wonderful, and I'm glad it worked out the way it did because now, here, by every measure, things are better. Better living situation, better relationship health, and a better job. 

In about 21 days and 1,100  miles or so I'll be finishing in Antelope Wells on the border, giving me about 1,600 miles of touring this summer with RAGBRAI. Last summer I did about 2,000 miles with 26 days and 1,500 miles of it on the Divide (ending with RAGBRAI). This means I'm a bit over halfway. This year Colorado has had a ton more rain, so I should have better access to water than I would have had last year and they've had no fires yet. The rivers are much, much higher. Here is hoping that when I get to New Mexico the rivers are full and the roads dry! (the mud down there can stop you dead)

To put myself back into it I re-read this blog and the photos, and dived into wonderful and  painfilled memories (often the same ones!)  I'm ready... I think. I've been waiting for this bittersweet moment for a year. Back on the divide, but once again seperated from Andrea. We gotta get a Touring Tandem...

Tomorrow I only do 30 miles or so but over a pass and at elevation, so we'll see how that goes. Also, what do I say when people ask: 

"Where did you start?"

"... good question, how long do you have...?"
"Well, I did the first half last year, but had to take care of life business so I'm doing the second half this year..."
"Well, I justed biked across Iowa, then..."
"That's complicated."

So is life. :)

Offically back on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Trail exactly where I stopped last year. Staying here today to acclimate to the 9k feet before climbing to 11k tomorrow. I feel a bit... #Biketour #gdmbr #greatdividemountainbikeroute


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Monday, July 29, 2019

Late post from last year, William's Fork to Silverthorne photos

These are photos from the last day or riding 2018 that I forgot to post, posted and captioned my 1st day of riding 2019

 



This is some kind of damned sludgy thing.

Pretty huge environmental impact, notnsure what they were doing.



Great rockies view as I descended a pass into Silverthorne 



The final stretch of 2018 (not including RAGBRAI), a paved tailwind!



I made it! I was acclimated to the elevation then. This year I'm not...



Picked up by Dan to drive to Denver.

Out of order, but my first photo of the day leaving my campsite.

Tuesday, July 31, 2018

RAGBRAI and the end of Phase 1 - musings and explanations

Note: This post took two days to write. Originally I finished it in about 1.5 hours as started below, but then it deleted most of itself and it's drafts when I tried to upload it, so I rewrote everything but the intro the next morning at a wild-fire smoked filled rest area just north of the Idaho border. I was very proud of my original post, maybe that's why I had to lose it. Hopefully this rewrite does it justice.

I'm in sitting outside a gas station in a tiny town off I84, right on the border of Utah and Idaho. I've been driving for about 10 hours, and probably have 10 left before eventually reaching Eugene, but that will be after some sleep since it's already 10pm.

So obviously I decided to not continue the Divide this summer after RAGBRAI, and instead will finish it next summer after RAGBRAI. I'm going to go into pretty good detail why here, mainly because this blog helps me understand myself, and I will feel better after writing this all down. Read if you'd like, if not, just know that it was a difficult decision, that I'm feeling fine physically, but the timing wasn't right. Skip to the end if you want just the philosophy I've been thinking about.

If you've been reading this blog for awhile you know that I started wresting with this decision awhile ago when I was having issues with hand pain and the Divide being different from what I am hoping it would be. However, that was a passing issue, and I pushed through that. It was just a phase I needed to go through to get to a different mental state. Sometimes it's hard to recognize those transitional phases in the moment, but in retrospect it was obvious.

One secret to life, I think, is learning when to recognize when issues are transition like that, or actually a big deal that you should respond to. It's learning to recognize when you just need to climb over some rocks in your valley of life, or need a course correction to a different side of the valley, or if you'd hit the actual wall. (That metaphor will be explained more later on).

There are a many benefits that come from making either decision, but they aren't big enough benefits to rise to the level of reasons for either decision, and for the most part I knew about them before I left anyway. These are different from reasons. There really are only two reason supporting either decision, but I'll list the benefits first for clarity.

Benefits of coming home now and finishing the Divide next summer:

- I get to have more variety in my summer, and do fun things with friends and have Eugene adventures. Variety is good.
- I can get a lot of stuff done before school starts up again, like build a dog trailer and try and get juggling club going again, etc. Also, I can go to a dentist, which would be nice.
- This is almost a reason, but not quite: I got injured on RAGBRAI and had to get stitches in my right elbow and bruised my left ankle pretty good. Riding over road seams really hurts, so riding on the rough divide road would be hell for about 3-5 days. However, I could probably push through that and even maybe enter a new mental state... or it could just suck... but  I wouldn't have quit on this alone without at least trying.
- I can get a fatter front tire on my bike for the rest of the ride, and Mark might even join.

Benefits of finishing the ride now:

- I'm in really really good shape. I've done 2,000 miles of hard riding, most of which were loaded loaded and at altitude. I am healthy and feeling great. There is no way to be this trained up again for when I finish the ride next summer, because you only get this fit when touring.
- There are currently no fires or smoke issues.
- Logistically it's easier and cheaper.
- It's way more bad-ass.
- I'm not getting any younger, and this is a hard ride.
- I may be able to catch some of my new friends who are now ahead of me again, because I ride faster than they do.

All of the above are good arguments and benefits for either side, but not deciding reasons, so let's get to the meat of this:

The reason I'm coming home now and finishing the Divide next summer:

I used to think of life as a wide plain that you could go anywhere on, as long as you were willing to do the work and accept the consequences. Then my marriage imploded, I had a mental breakdown, I dwelled on suicide for a few months, went to lots of therapy, almost got killed when I was hit by a car, and emerged with a different world view: Life is a wide valley. You can steer to either side of the wide valley, but you can't leave it. Some things just aren't possible.

For example, I couldn't have not got divorced. Nothing I could have done would have stopped that. A future with my ex was not in my valley. Which is not to say that I regret it either, both our lives are better now and we are in better relationships. I think I could have steered to a better part of the valley in the years leading up to the divorce, but the divorce was inevitable and ended up being good in the long run.

Right now Andrea and I are in the the beginning stages of a wonderful, loving, strong relationship that we both hope will last a long time. We have worked very hard to build up the foundations and things are going well, but it's still a young relationship in many ways. Our relationship is in a stage where it still benefits from a lot of nurturing, and being gone for two months risks starving and damaging it.

We aren't having any problems right now (don't worry), but it has become clear to me while on this trip that two months away could be detrimental to what we are trying to build.  We both have a lot of damage from our old relationships that we haven't fully healed from yet, and being gone this long this soon is mucking with that healing process and what we are trying to build.

There is no way for me to finish this ride and not risk what we are building - that option is outside the valley of my life. I only have the option to steer towards our relationship, or steer towards finishing this bike tour. I can't escape that choice.

And, with that realization, I choose US. It's an obvious and easy choice once you accept that you've hit a wall in your valley and you can't have both. US, Andrea and Me, continuing to build a strong relationship, is completely the right choice.

Next summer it should be a lot easier on both of us for me to be gone, but right now it's just too soon. I'm grateful to have been able to realize that. It's been hard to realize because it's not for sure something that could cause damage, but I believe the risk is high enough that the risk/reward no-longer comes out in favor of staying away.

Well that seems cut and dry, doesn't it? So why is this still a hard?

Reason for finishing the Divide this summer:

It's hard because I'm not done yet. I'm not done exploring, adventuring, and experiencing. I'm not done thinking thoughts that take more than a minute, day, week, or month to think. I'm not done having a conversations with the heat, wind, and hills. I'm not done learning from the world. I still feel like I'm on the edge of discovering... something... My soul wants to keep going.  It *feels* right to continue.

But, logically, it's not the right choice. Luckily, for me, logical always eventually wins out over feelings, so I will find peace in this reality (and in fact, rewriting this the next morning, I'm more at peace with it when I wrote it last night.) In a way, I'm grieving the loss of the reality that I thought I was in. We both thought that this would be easier for us both, and both have realized that it's too risky, and now that my world view has shifted I'm grieving the old, errored world view.

I'm also hopelessly addicted to adventure. I don't want to go to sleep in the same town every night yet. There is so much more to see and experience, but I can have other types of adventure in Eugene.

And so this brings me to what is perhaps the most important part of this journey for me: The learning. What have I discovered so far on this journey, and now that I am finishing, can I continue this part of my journey even if I'm at home?

The Philosophy

It's scary that after a night's sleep, this part of my post is already harder to write. I'm already losing my connection to where I was, which is why I wrote it out last night. But, that's the challenge, I suppose. 

Some things can't be taught. In fact, one could say that understanding can never be taught, and a good teacher can lead a student towards understanding, but the revelation comes from within the student. The more complicated the subject, the harder it is to lead someone down a path towards understanding. When your subject is enlightement, a human teacher probably can't lead you. You have to open yourself up to the world as a teacher, but first you must learn to listen to it. (Yes, I know that sounds pretentious, but I don't have better words to use.)

What I have learned bike touring couldn't have been taught to me, and I can't teach it to you. I can't even put it into words here that make sense, because it's a feeling and awareness. What I can do is talk about the path I'm on, and maybe it will help you on yours. I certainly have been helped by different books, etc (more on that later).

Back in Steamboat Springs when saying goodbye to Casey, I wrote that I felt like I was on the verge of discovering "something," but I wasn't sure what it was. I think it had to do with what I'm going to write about next, and that discovery is still on the tip of my mind. I hope to catch it someday.

For years I've said that bike touring slows down time. I've said "Days feel like weeks, weeks feel like months, months feel like years. You have more experiences in a day than you have in a week of your normal life. Time slows down and you live. You really live.'"

I've always attributed that slowing down of time to all the novel experiences you have on a trip, but I realized on this trip that it's more than that. It's also due to a lack of distraction which opens up your mind to perception, as well as the mediation I get from riding.

I wrote a few weeks ago about all the non-verbal communication I've been having with the hills, gravel, wind, sun, etc. Long distance biking assisted mediation have really open up my perception, and it facilitate having thoughts that take a long time to have. I don't ride with music or any other distractions, and in these moments I am present and aware, I'm living in the now, and open to what the world is telling me, rather than distracted and numb.

(Side note, I'm a scientist. I know that having nonverbal, feeling-based discussions with a hills as you climb them sounds silly on it's face, but I don't have the words to describe what it really is, so please accept that much of what I'm saying is metaphor.)

I realized on this trip the first two steps to LIVING life rather than just going through the motions (and one day I hope to discover more steps.)

Step 1 is finding your bike touring. Find what helps you slow down time, and awaken to the world. Find a way to think thoughts that take longer than a day, week, or month to think.

Step 2 is finding a way to continue that slow-down of time even when not bike touring. I realized this should be my goal during a conversation at Brush Mountain Lodge with other travelers, who all are out here to have similar revelations. This mental state shouldn't just be something I visit every now and then, I need to find a way to make it always. I didn't really think it was possible before, and maybe it's not, but I plan on trying.

The world is so distracting. Facebook, Netflix, news, work, day to day life, etc. With a distracting, addicing phone in your pocket it's hard to think a thought that takes longer than even a second, much less a minute or a week or a month. This lack of deep thinking causes feelings of emptiness, hopelessness, anxiety, and numbness. It traps us in a cycle of reaction, pain, and panic. We feel out of control because we are blindly stumbling through life with our eyes closed and our soul asleep.

Without long, deep thinking we all get stuck up our own asses, lose our perspective, and get trapped in shallow cycles.

If you think deeply and listen to the world, you live in the world, but if you distract your life away numb your brain, you live in your own ass.  Most of society is living in their own asses right now, and that's why they act like they are surrounded by shit.

I've read three very influential books lately "Sapiens" is a history of humans on earth, and I read it before I left.  It talks about the cognitive, agricultural, and scientific revolutions, as well as pretty much the entire meta history of society. On the trip I re-read The Alchemist, which can be pretty over-the-top, but is a good philosophical tool and provides some useful vocabulary for having these discussions. Right now I'm reading Siddhartha, the story of a young man in India searching for enlightenment in the time of the Budda. I recommended all three.

I came across this passage in Siddhartha after I had the thoughts that I had above:

"Gradually, like humidity entering the dying stem of a tree, filling is slowly and making it rot, the world and sloth had entered Siddhartha's soul. It gradually filled his soul, made it heavy and tired, and put it to sleep."

I feel like, for now, my (metaphorical) soul is awake. I feel like I was able to take a big step back out to the edge of the cycle of the world and see it for what it is. I feel like most of the people I see are trapped in different cycles. I'm right on the edge of the world, and fear being pulled back in. I don't want to go back up my own ass.

So now, my goal, for life, is to find a way to live life with the awareness that bike touring has taught me is possible, even when not touring. To find a way to keep the frivolity and media of the world from putting my soul to sleep. To find a way to stay awake and continue conversing with the world.

It will be difficult. Just spending 12 hours driving in a car (cars remove you from the world in extreme ways) has already numbed my soul a bit, and I enjoy things like Netflix and want to find balance with it. I also don't want to check out of creating positive change in the world, however I see that the way that many of us are trying to create that change is just feeding the same toxic cycles and destroying ourselves.

(Positive change doesn't come from Facebook, friends, and memes are toxins. Memes are 1/2 second thoughts that replace your own thoughts and poison your mind and sedate it. Memes are butt plugs that trap you in your own ass.)

Rewriting this post, I already am having more trouble putting this into words than I did last night. I'm also not a "sit down and meditate" kind of guy, but I can try to minimize distraction. I can try to cultivate boredom. I can try to continue thinking.

And so that is what I will do now. I am going home to nurture a wonderful union. While there I will also try to continue having a conversation with the world, and when I come back here in a year the world and I hopefully won't greet each other as friends who've been apart for a year, but rather as buddies who have been traveling together and hanging out all winter.

When I return I will hopefully be in in the midst of thinking a thought that takes longer than a year to think. What a wonderful adventure that will be!

I'll see you all then.