Thursday, June 28, 2018

Cabin Heavin to Park Lake Campground

Here I am, 10pm, kinda drunk, trying to write a blog post... again. Seriously, when I road toured I spent less time hanging out with people then on this supposedly remote tour. It's awesome!  I'm really going to have to be brief tonight though.

The morning was awesome. The North and South bounders and I hung out awhile eating pancakes in one of the cabins, after I slept in in my warm cabin and listened to NPR on the wifi.  I didn't leave until 9am, but it was worth it.

Then I climbed a shit ton, biked a bunch, saw pretty things, rode over rough roads, etc.  On previous tours walking was taboo, but on this one it's often necessary. Climbing at 2 mph over crazy boulders vs walking at 2mph over crazy boulders is pretty much the same thing. Screw it. Hiking is also cool.

Anyway, I climbed for 20 some miles or so (with some flats and small downhills) and crossed the continental divide twice. It was through beautiful hills and lots of old mines. After cresting the last one I took about an hour break, and my south bound buddies caught up with me. We rode together downhill for about 5 miles and then I split of on an alternative route to skip Helena, which I've already biked through in 2014 and was a bit out of my way.

I then climbed a ton more through a really cool area, and thunderstorms threatened. Eventually they caught me and I climbed for while in some crazy weather, rain, thunder, lighting, all with me way up on the top of the hills - but my planned stop was just a few more miles at six thousand feet - Park Lake.

So here is where the story gets awesome. With about two miles left to go an blue truck comes up the deserted gravel road. I'm in full neon raingear so I know the see me. However, I hear their engine rev and look back and see them accelerating straight at me. I bail off the road into a ditch and they ride by laughing.

Don't worry, that's not the awesome part.

Then another truck comes up. Here we go again, right? But they slow down and talk to me. They have a friend riding the divide, and are cyclists themselves, and invite me to hang with them in their camper trailer at Park Lake. Score!

I show up, cold, wet, and tired, and they feed me, warm me, and are great company for several hours.

Steve is a retired probation officer and Jamie is a Nurse Practioner. They have done lots of riding and were pretty fun to hang out with. During a break in the rain I ran out and set up my tent, but instead of spending all evening in a cold tent, alone, cooking dinner under a rain fly, I got to hang out with cool people in a trailer while they fed me and gave me moscow mules!  They had great stories, and were super cute together.

This is why I love bike touring. I wrote about it before back in 2014 - people are good. They help each other. This is proof. I am alone and vulnerable. Yes, I am self sufficient, but I still appreciate kindness and love. And, people like Steven and Jamie, they are kindness and love. They are Montana, not the jerkbutts who ran me off the road. I am so grateful to them for reminding me of that. This is a huge reason why I tour, to remind myself that people are - at their hearts - good. :)

Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Ovando to Cabin Heaven

I'm six days into this tour, and strangely I sort of feels like I'm picking back up from where I left off back in 2014. Solo tours feel different.  This one is significantly harder riding though. Holy balls.  Also, I'm writing this from a sweet cabin, check it out...

There is a lot to say, so I'll try to be brief.

I slept terribly last night. I didn't go to bed until 1pm for some dumb reason, mostly due to mucking around with this blog. I also made a terrible mistake.  The tipi had cots in it. I'd never slept in a cot, I didn't know that unless you put a sleeping pad on it, you will freeze. I froze. Down sleeping bags won't insulate under you, and cots are cold! Lesson learned.

I had a good breakfast with Keith and Henning in a breakfast place in Ovando. Henning gave me all sorts of sweet elevation maps of the ride. I got out of camp late - 9:50, and it was already getting hot.

The first 12 miles or so were flat through pastoral Montana. I'm definitely in a different biome and out of the northern wilderness. What I just rode through is a combined wilderness area bigger than Yellowstone!

I them had a 6 miles or so climb that went well, followed be a fast downhill. I made it Lincoln, Mt around 1:30pm, 38 miles into the ride. There were other ups and downs too. It's never flat here.

Lincoln loves bike tourists! It's a small but right away there is a bar with signs welcoming us, a burger called the Wheel Burger, and a tent stocked with bike supplies, a work stand, tools, and home made cookies. One of the people who lives in the town's son did the race once, and now they take care of all of us!

After a burger and a beer I headed out about 1.5 hours later for another huge climb. This one was definitely the toughest of the trip so far. It was only about 5 miles, but it was straight up. Incredibly steep. And hot. It's hot now.

Eventually I made it and it was my first crossing of the continental divide! Yay, I'm in the east now! Then there was a screaming downhill that was so fast and steep that my brakes started overheating and smoking. I could smell them.  That slowed me down a bit, because I had to stop every minute or two to cool of my brakes.

During one of the stops I scared the crap out of a black bear and it ran away. I had my bells on to warn bears, and that combined with my gravel skid stop must have been suprising. I clapped and sang songs for a bit before moving on to where the bear had been.

Now here is the the best part of the day, which is saying a lot because the riding was amazing! In Ovando I saw an advertisement for a free cabin for cyclists 22 miles outside of Lincoln, which is about where I was hoping to camp. I saw a sign later in Lincoln. Then, on the top of the insane climb, was a another sign pained on a stump saying 7 miles downhill to the cabin and a bunch of water. Then, I found it!

It's not just one cabin, but two, and a tent. I caught up with three south bound riders who have the big cabin, I have my own small cabin, and two north bound riders also came in who are staying in a tent. It's amazing! The hosts are so cool and these places are posh. We're also in the middle of nowhere, so this is a pretty special slice of heaven. There are solar showers, lots of stocked food, cool art, Llamas, etc. These people are inspirational. I hope I can be as good a host to cyclists one day.

So yea, cabin. Maybe I'll get some sleep :)

Ovando to The Cabin Heaven

This will make more sense if you read the narrative first

The adveristement for the cabin in Ovando

Keith's rig

Flat Montana. I climbed over the mountains in the distance.

Looking back where I was from the climb

Looking back from even higher at the same place.

Lotsa burns

These are my cow friends.

Lincoln loved us!

This tent, at the same bar, is stocked by parents who's son did the Divide. It has bike parts, tools, a work stand, and home made cookies!

The climb after Lincoln was very steep...

and had down trees...

and lakes...

and was very steep... and hot...

but this was at the top!

The climb (if you zoom in on the sign) was called S FK Poorman.  I bet you know what I think the S and FK stand for.

But I got to the top of the continental divide for the first time on this trip!

The descent was pretty.

Sweet Lakehouse!

The rest of these photos are of the cabins

Where I am staying

Inside my cabin

South Bounders and Llamas

North bounders and their bikes.  The bikes below this were the south bounder bikes.

The big cabin

This is out of order, but it's also inside my cabin

Also out of order, it's a sign for the Continental Divide Hiking Trail!

Tuesday, June 26, 2018

Holland Lake to Ovando Photos


Morning Steve!

Morning Barb!

Morning Richard and his buddy! 

Climb photos

This was more what I was expecting.

The top! Also my first service in awhile.

Helmet hair!

A screaming descent!

Wild, a fire...

A northbound riders rig.

One last shot of Richard and buddy as I was leaving Seeley Lake and they were arriving. I wish I'd had more time to get to know them.

The ride to Ovando.

Logging, burns, and pine beetles 

Outside Ovando. We've changed biomes.

Ovando!

Henning and Keith

Henning's rig. He also has a back pack.

The jail!


The tipi and wagon
Inside.the jail